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A summer tour to Lincoln

Setting out on a warm summer’s day in early August for an overnight stop in the City of Lincoln was no hardship. I was buzzing at the prospect. The first part of the ride will be familiar to followers of Gravel Notts. The ride out of Hucknall or Nottingham if you are based there utilising NCN 6 through Newstead Abbey, Blidworth and north to take National Cycle Network (NCN) 645 east towards Bilsthorpe is regular and delightful ground. The forest cover providing shelter from the early morning sun was appreciated as I knew there would be little shade after crossing the border into Lincolnshire. The only unfamiliar sight was being greeted by three ladies and a gentleman walking their pigs as I approached Bilsthorpe village. They were all well behaved and happy to pose for a photograph. This is Nottinghamshire so expect to expect the unexpected. The conversation started with, “I saw you guys on East Midlands Today” (a local TV News Programme). To which we discussed how well behaved the pigs where and thanking them for their time.

Having admired the drove, I had to look up what you call a group of pigs, the route continued until a planned refreshment stop at the delightful Daffodil Tea Rooms in Eakring. Having fuelled up I then headed northeast, on the quiet lanes through multiple villages, Kneesal, Laxton, which claims to retain the only open field system in England and Egmanton before heading directly east avoiding Tuxford on this occasion.

The addition of the town of Tuxford would have provided plentiful cafe stops but, on this occasion, I was still feeling full from my visit to the Daffodil Tearooms. I was also enjoying making good wind assisted progress along the unclassified lanes so a visit to Tuxford can go on the to do list although I have visited it many times before.

The last village before crossing the River Trent at Fledborough was Skegby followed by a slightly bumpy section of NCN 647. This then gave way to a gravel track heading towards the Fledborough Viaduct. This abandoned railway line that once ferried passengers to the historic City of Lincoln is littered with ghost railway platforms. The first is situated at Marnham which feels a little eerie now it is nestled in woodland that has taken over the platform. I stopped for a while to take a photo and enjoy, probably the last shade of the day.

As the Viaduct passes over the great River Trent, I was surprised at how little of the River I could see but grateful for the excellent gravel surface it provided. The opportunity to snap a quality photograph of the viaduct (that I will save for the book) could not be missed however and so it was then that I found an exit path on the east bank from which I was able to find a vantage point to view the viaduct’s vast expanse across the water. Fledborough Viaduct is an interesting structure of brick and iron. It not only stretches across the river but also the extensive floodplain that lies on each side of the Trent at this point.

At this point the River Trent is nearing its destination to the Humber and is deep and wide. I too had a destination to reach so it was back to NCN 647 that meets NCN 64 north of Harby and onwards towards Lincoln. Once over the border the going is flat for the remainder of the journey. North Nottinghamshire’s undulating lanes give way to flat gravel. On this occasion, with a tail wind to boost progress. It’s not long after passing over the river that I approached the second abandoned railway station at Clifton on Trent. The platform sign still remains but I had to straighten the letters for photographic purity. In hindsight wonky letters may have been more authentic.

And so, the journey continued, perfect dusty gravel until the next notable settlement of Skellingthorpe. Passing through the village only brief glimpses of the habitation are noticeable as I rumbled on along the 16 km of straight gravel until I finally had to take a right turn under the A46 to pick up Foss Dyke taking me directly into the heart of Lincoln and the vibrant Brayford Pool area. The last section of the route into Lincoln is also interesting as Foss Dyke is a navigation with boats moored up of differing type and size.

After finding my accommodation for the night, unpacking and a quick shower it was time to wander around this beautiful city, take a look at the cathedral and admire the remains of the city wall, oh and find somewhere to eat which wasn’t difficult. The sunlight made the historic buildings seem even more picturesque. A walk around the historic part of Lincoln is challenging. I guess Steep Hill acquired its name for a reason. It is claimed to be the fourth steepest street in the country. I have cycled up it before and watched the Lincoln Grand Prix riders race up it but this evening walking the steep cobbles was enough of a challenge.

Whilst eating my evening meal I was able to reflect on the 65 km ride. I enjoy cycling with friends, sharing a beer and banter in the evening but there is also something to be said about being a solo traveler. It gives me inner peace and satisfaction. This route was an absolute joy, definitely one I will choose to take again.

The evening was also a time to relax and consider my options for tomorrow’s return journey. Maybe the long way back via Newark on Trent?

And so, the morning came. As I often do, I made a journey on foot to the local supermarket to buy supplies for the day and a makeshift breakfast to eat in my room in the well-known hotel chain, which was very nice and central may I add. The main bonus is being allowed to take your bike into the room itself.

Setting out it was another warm humid day with severe thunderstorms forecast for the afternoon. I had made a decision that evening. Given this was my first overnight ride since surgery early in the year, and I ‘d only recommenced cycling in mid-June I was going to take the train to Newark and ride back home from there.

The train ran smoothly and I was able to get a seat next to my bike, perfectly. Alighting the train at Newark I decided to eat my provisions in the gardens facing Newark Castle before heading initially north along the banks of the River Trent before crossing over to pick up NCN 64 (south) and head west towards Nottingham. The NCN 64 is a tarmac traffic free surface from Newark Northgate Station and follows the abandoned railway line until Cotham. At that point I diverted from the NCN route and made my way through the lanes until I was pleased to join a gravel byway by the name of Baxter Lane that provided the day’s first meaningful stretch of gravel until the village of Hawksworth.

Now at this point my plan was to stop off at Screveton for a refuel at the cycling mega cafe that is Cafe Velo Verde. Unfortunately, this was a Monday, the only day they don’t open in the summer. Luckily, I had saved some of my supplies bought in Lincoln and made do with the snacks I had preserved and a drink from my biddon.

Setting out from cafe Velo Verde I could see that the thunder storms forecast was threatening. The rain visible in the distance along with forks of lightning and loud claps of thunder progressing ever closer. I prepared myself mentally for a soaking. Any cyclist knows the feeling, there is no way out of this one, nowhere to shelter of any meaning and a long way from home. It’s summer, you have your lightweight shoes on, a flimsy wind jacket, short sleeves and bib shorts. However, as I neared Gunthorpe bridge to cross the Trent for the third time on this tour I was becoming hopeful that I had, somehow, dodged the storm. This was confirmed as I rode through Lowdham and Epperstone where the roads had clearly had a soaking before my arrival. As cyclists sometimes we just get lucky!

All I had now to do was to climb the north face of Bonner Hill, descend into Calverton, up and over Gravelly Hollow and, after cutting through Burntstump Park I was cycling over Papplewick Moor and home. The route was a mere 50 km on day 2 but I had completed my first post-surgery tour and felt pretty happy about it. However, my first reaction was not to philosophise but to say to myself, well done chap, now, what’s next?

As for the route, I can highly recommend it, especially the Nottingham to Lincoln via the Fledborough Viaduct. Such long stretches of good gravel are rare. It flat and deposits the rider into a beautiful historic city with plenty of options for onward travel or a return loop. What more could a gravel cyclist ask for?